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Focus problems sigma 18 35 1.81/12/2024 And somehow, the retail price on this lens is only $799! That is a LOT of metal for $799. This is seriously one of the best built lenses on the market and surely is the best under $1,500 without question. Not to be outdone though by its looks, the Sigma 18-35mm feels amazing. The Piano black metal finish is quite honestly as beautiful as any lens should be. Frankly, all ‘Art’ series sigma lenses have been lookers thought the 18-35mm just took the crown. The biggest question in my mind was could it possibly be any good? Sure sigma could create a zoom lens with a wide aperture, but it surely couldn’t be sharp enough to be usable. As if the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 had not made enough headlines, the Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 was a show stopper. No one had ever tried or was even rumored to be working on a zoom lens with over a stop more light than the leading f2.8 zooms. I am going to fire up the slider and practice tracking it like the football shooters do with a swing and see if that helps me sharpen my skills.When the Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 was first leaked and then later introduced, most people thought it was a joke. I fall on my face when a subject is randomly moving but that is operator error. A pull from exactly A->exactly B-> exactly A works 90% of the time for me. If I set stops for a pull from A->B where the range is B takes pretty well an entire turn. I don't know what follow focus system you are using but with the nano it will set the maximum throw automatically if you want even with the 18-35. Tony Spiraletti wrote:The 18-35 most definitely isn't a focus by wire lens. Sure, there are video camera's without mirrors that have adopted these mounts but to call the EF mount a 'mirrorless mount' for this reason would be wrong I feel. Canon's EF, Nikon's F and the cine PL standard mounts have all been designed to accommodate cameras with reflex mirror mechanisms and so required much longer flange distances to allow for the space the mechanism requires. MFT, E Mount, RF all have a very short flange distance from the sensor as they have been designed to be used on mirrorless cameras. Generally (and what I assumed by the original question) when referring to a mirrorless mount, we mean a mount with a very short flange distance that was not designed to accomodate a reflex mirror. Are you folks referring to an MFT mount or a Sony E-mount? If so stop calling it a mirrorless mount because the EF mounts are on mirrorless camera as well and the 18-35 comes in EF mount which can be used on the BMD cameras and others that are mirrorless. There is a Cine version for the Sony E-mount.Įllory Yu wrote:I don’t understand what is being said here. In that case, there is no 18-35 still lens version for the MFT or E-mount without having to buy an adapter. I don’t understand what is being said here. To use on a mirrorless camera you have to use an adaptor such as Metabones, Viltrox etc. Last I checked, the 18-35 doesn’t come in any mirrorless mounts. What do you think will Sigma make or is there in the market or rehoused version of the same lens but for mirrorless cameras?Īnd if there are, what are mirrorless version advantages? Robert Niessner wrote:I do have the photo version and the cine version.ĭude photo version of 18-35mm is made for dslr cameras correct? I've been manually focusing lenses for over 15 years and don't usually have issues but I find the 18-35 challenging. When you have a lens like this which can produce very shallow depth of field, this limited focus throw movement in the usable range makes it difficult to use accurately. This means that you only have a focus ring rotation of around 10 degrees to get from 2ft to 6ft with the other 10 degrees getting from 6ft to infinity. 92ft to 2ft! I don't know about you but I rarely shoot anything at that range. The main issue I find with the lens is that while the focus ring turns about 120 degrees from minimum focus to infinity, about 90 of those degrees are used in getting from the minimum focus of. Setting the end stops is actually quite easy once you do it enough though. This means that if your end stops are 1mm out, you will not be able to repeatedly hit focus marks accurately. Firstly, you need to make sure you set the end stops perfectly as the lens does not have hard stops. It's very hard to be accurate with this lens. Saying that, I use the 18-35 on a Pocket6k regularly on a Ronin and usually have a focus puller focusing with a wireless follow focus. Without the lens mounted to the camera (lens not getting power), if you turn the focus ring, you can see the glass element in the lens moving. The 18-35 most definitely isn't a focus by wire lens.
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